Life is like a pot of Biryani

I sent a picture of my Biryani with an elaichi (cardamom pod) sticking out out to my friend. He replied "You're going to hell!". This got me thinking, why is there such intense hatred towards this amazing spice? We love it in our chai and mitthai (desserts). Why the double standards?

If, like Forest Gump once said, "life is like a pot of biryani; you never know when you'll get a bite of elaichi", then elaichi are just the moments in life full of intense emotions (good and bad) that remind us of our own humanity. You'll also notice that the rice surrounding the pod is also the most flavourful.

I responded to my friend with one of Jigar Moradabadi's shers (couplets): "Aatish-e-ishq woh jahannum hai, jismein firdaus ke nazzaare hain" (The fire of love, that is Hell, in which the sights of heaven dwell).

Its time to salute this belittled spice. Let's end the discrimination... kal, aaj, hamesha (then, now, always).

Saare Jahan Se Accha... if you want it to be

At the stroke of the midnight hour of 14 August 1947, Nehru, the first prime minister of an independent India, addressed the nation and there were celebrations going on throughout the country. But people who were present at Nehru's speech were concerned with just one thing. Where was the man who made it his life mission to unite and free Hindustan from the oppression and tyranny of the most formidable empire? Gandhi ji was nowhere to be found. Any guesses?

While many parts of the country were celebrating their azaadi (freedom), Gandhi was in Calcutta feeding and wiping tears of those people in areas affected by the violence attributed to the partition of India (something else to thank the British for).

Its things like this that show you the character of the "Father of the nation". A normal man would celebrate and enjoy the victorious moment of achieving azaadi. Whereas Gandhi went straight to work, trying to help those in need to make the country a better place. He knew that we would never be free if we continued to divide, oppress and violate each other the way British did for 200 years.

India can be described as an "overwhelming" and "incredibly complex" country (for lack of better words). It is very easy to accept things the way they are and say that "I am only one person so what can I  do... This place will never change" or just quit India all together. But the question that we as Indians / Pakistanis / Bangladeshis (i.e. all Hindustanis) should ask ourselves is "Is this what our forefathers fought for? Did our grandparents live through hell in their childhood just so we could recreate such conditions in the new millennium?". I sometimes wonder if I would have even had the privilege to write these blogs if Gandhi had thought "I'm just one man, what can I achieve?".

What we (as individuals) could do differently and teach the next generation:

1. Donate. Donate. Donate. In addition to other social causes that you may donate to in your local country, always remember to feed those in our homeland who have no (real) social welfare system.

2. Don't take shortcuts. Trying to bypass the system, make something happen faster, or just looking to make a quick buck all lead to the "C" word... Corruption.

3. Focus on the similarities that unite us, rather than focusing on the differences that divide. All Hindustanis (whether you identify with a particular religion, country, state, city or caste) should rememeber that we fought united for 200 years for the same cause before a few individuals at the top let their egos (and a British civil servant) carve up our shared homeland. We should try to remember that "mazhab nahi sikatha apas mein bhair rakna" (our faith does not teach us to hate each other) and we actually have more in common than we'd like to admit.

This blog post has become a lot longer than I wanted so I will end it here with a couplet from our national song:

"Hindī haiṉ ham, wat̤an hai Hindostāṉ hamārā" (We are of Hind, our homeland is Hindustan)

These countries that make up Hindustan really do have the potential to be "Saare jahan se accha" (Better than the rest)... only if we want them to be.

Jashne Azaadi, Hindustan.

Jai Hind!

My modern day "Tirang" (tri-colour)

Pride of the Malabar Coast: Grilled Tiger Prawns & Fish Curry

Similar to Goa, Kerala is renowned for its scenic beauty, intense spices and delicious seafood. It's almost as if the three sensations just feed of each other, making Kerala that much more memorable. But today I would like to tell you about one meal in particular; the grilled tiger prawns and Malabar fish curry that I had at an outdoor restaurant called Café Cuba in Fort Kochi.

Grilled Tiger Prawns

The grilled tiger prawns were medium sized and came served dry on a plate with six full pieces, carrots and lime. They appeared to have been lightly marinated in a tandoori type of masala, similar to the masala used in tandoori chicken up north. After spending thirty seconds admiring the appearance of the perfectly glazed tiger prawns, we took our first bites. The subtle tandoori marinade with the lime juice squeezed on top made the prawns a delicious appetizer. The fact that they were perfectly cooked made it that much better. One could easily be content with this as his or her main course meal, but the prawns seemed irrelevant once we tried the next dish.

Malabar Fish Curry

In school our teachers always told us "Don't judge a book by its cover". Although, if you're Indian then at home your mom probably changed this to "Don't say anything about your meal until you try it" (or something along those lines) like mine did. This phrase is very apt when describing the Malabar fish curry at Café Cuba. Compared to the prawns, the large whole fish soaked in a thick red curry didn’t seem very appealing but I soon benefited from those childhood lectures. With the first bite (and every one that followed) came an intense rush of flavours that can only be described as "abundant yet balanced". It had intense spice (that is common in most Malayali dishes) but it was balanced by the sweetness of tomatoes. It was somewhat tangy, yet bitter at the same time. I couldn't quite make out how they achieved that. Perhaps the use of Malabar tamarind (different to normal tamarind) is what caused this. The fish was grilled before being added to the curry so the flesh was soft and came off the bone with ease. We started with roti and finished it off with coconut rice.

I can't explain just how much flavour there was in the fish curry. Both my friend and I had to take breaks from eating (partially due to the intense heat of Kochi but also) because we actually couldn't believe how good it was.

My favourite meals will always be nihari/paya and Bihari kababs, but it has to be said… the Malabar fish curry was probably the tastiest dish I have ever eaten.

Below: a video showing the tiger prawns and large whole fish being grilled on the hot plate and a view of Cafe Cuba, a small outdoor restaurant with approximately 5 or 6 tables.

Below: The well-presented grilled tiger prawns

Below: Perhaps not the prettiest dish, but it was probably the tastiest dish I have very had. You can see the Malabar fish curry is full of onion and Malabar Tamarind (those small black chunks).

Below: The ancient Chinese fishing nets (10 minute walk from Cafe Cuba) that were used to catch fresh seafood used by nearby restaurants

Justice, Liberty, Equality and Fraternity - The Indian Dream

26 January 1950. What does this date mean to you? Sadly, to many Indians it's just another day off from work, a day to sleep in late or one of the numerous Indian holidays celebrated every year because that's what the old timers did.

On the other hand, many people are actually aware of its historical significance and its impact on India today; It's the day the constitution came into effect. The day that India granted her citizens fundamental rights and enforced the values by which the government (and leaders) would serve the public. Now we could sit here and write a thesis discussing the flaws of this document (which also happens to be the world's longest constitution) but I don't want to focus on that as it takes away from what the constitution is trying to achieve. The preamble mentions the rights secured to all of India's citizens:

• Justice;
• Liberty of thought, expression, belief, faith and worship;
• Equality of status and opportunity; and
• Fraternity (unity) of the country.

Many of my friends and family continuously question why I feel so strongly about India - when I have never lived there, when I was born in and brought up in NZ and let's not forget the thousands of problems/flaws of India that they have waiting in their back pocket to use against me. They are quick to call me "foolish" and  "ignorant" for thinking positively about this place that I call "home". It's hard to explain myself to them. I completely agree with the negative points they raise, but in my opinion* it's these four sentiments listed in the constitution that define the values of India and what she is striving to achieve.

My only real concern at the moment is that our current Rashtrapati (President) and Pradhan Mantri (Prime Minister) are not doing their part to keep India on the right path by enforcing and protecting these values. It is all too easy to think about current threats to each of the four points:

• Lack of punishment for REAL criminals.
• People not being allowed to criticise religious/political figures without being punished and not being able to practice their religion in peace.
• The stronghold of the archaic caste system and oppression of minorities.
• Politicians looking to divide India based on differences when it is those differences that unite us.

At the moment I cannot offer any solutions, but giving up on the Indian dream is most definitely not a solution. Writing it off as a third-world country "that will never change" is not the way forward. My uncle would always say "Don't be a part of the problem. Be a part of the solution!". By no means is India perfect, nor will I ever think so, but that won't stop me trying to make it one.

Happy Republic Day!

*DISCLAIMER: While I have only read a few different sections of the constitution, I am in no way claiming to be an expert in the subject.

Above: Got an up and close tour of Rashtrapati Bhavan  (The President's house)

Above: The National Emblem of India shining in the shadows of Rashtrapati Bhavan

Above: Tirang (Tricolour) on Rajpath being prepared for Republic Day celebrations. Photo taken by Chandan Khanna

My first Indian festival... Happy Lohri!

Last night was my first celebration of an indian festival in India. Lohri, traditionally a punjabi festival,  involves burning a bon fire and throwing popped corn and nuts on it to celebrate the harvest season (this is my understanding based on the numerous explanations I have heard). While it was mainly people of the Sikh faith that organised the bon fires around the neighbourhood that I was in, it was an amazing feeling to see it being celebrated by people of all religions: Sikhs, Hindus, Muslims, Jains and Christians spending hours together around the fire chatting, learning about the festival and appreciating each others company. Despite having a majority Hindu population in Delhi and India, the same thing happens on Eid and Christmas.

Our differences are what unite us. This is what it means to be secular. This is what it means to be Indian.

The Goan Essentials: Tandoori Pomfret and Fish Curry

Goa (formerly a Portuguese colony) is generally known for partying, beaches, the sunburn music festival and amazing Goan style seafood. While I went for the latter two, it's pretty hard to avoid the others.

Sunburn is one of Asia's biggest music festivals featuring multiple stages for the world's best DJs. I was blown away by what I experienced! You don't need to a fan of electronic and dance music to have fun. It was crazy.

But my real passion in exploring new lands, as always, is the local food. Goan preparations combine traditional Indian spices with Portuguese flavours which give a memorable taste.

There may be many special restaurants in Goa, but one must experience the beach shack culture of the Goan beaches. They offer a diverse range of food including local preparations; Tandoori Pomfret and Goan Fish curry are my favourites.

Tandoori Pomfret:

Pomfret is a small sized fish that has a single bone running through the body. It has flesh on both sides and is heavily marinated in local spices which are very famous throughout India. Sometimes the fish will be stuffed with masala paste before it is flame grilled to perfection. Garnished with lemon, mint/coriander chutney and salad, this dish gives an explosion of flavour and leaves you wanting more (as the fish is not very large). If you are someone who prefers bland food or the "subtly of flavours" then this dish (and most other Indian food) is not for you. 

Goan Fish Curry:

While goan fish curry is unique in its flavour, it can be made in different ways with many types of seafood. Fleshy pieces of fish or prawn are cooked in a thick, spicy and tangy coconut curry. It's should be eaten with plain rice or naan. I usually usually prefer dry (fried /tandoor) fish over curries but the Goan fish curry has opened my eyes. 

The shacks may not be the 5 star beach resorts that people would hope for, but they have a diverse menu that caters to most tastes and a relaxing experience that every beach lover will enjoy.

Above: Sunburn in Goa, Asia's biggest music festival

Below: Goan spices sold in a local market

Above: Tandoori Pomfret served with salad and chutney

Below: Panorama from one of the Beach Shacks on Baga Beach

Roll House: "The best momos and rolls in Gangtok"

If you're  in Gangtok, you're probably there to enjoy the peace and beauty that Sikkim's capital (also a hillstation) has to offer. But if you're like me, then the first thing you Google when in a new city is "places to eat in....".

Sikkim's culture has a strong Tibetan influence and therefore their food consists of Tibet style dishes which have been adjusted to Indian tastes. Sticking to the basics, I decided to try the Roll House's Vege Momos and kathi style roll which were highly rated on TripAdvisor.

Vege Momo
Momos are the Indo-Chinese version of dunplings and are usually served with some chutney or or other spicy sauce; unlike your usual Asian dumplings that are served with soy sauce or chili oil.

These mixed vege and paneer momos were steamed perfectly - steaming hot on the inside but soft and warm on the outside so you are able to hold them while taking small bites without burning your fingers. The chutney packed a major punch so have water or lassi on standby. These momos make a tasty snack for any occasion. I highly recommend visitors in Gangtok to try these.

Roll House's Special Vege Roll
This roll was a large parantha or pouri  (depending on your definition) wrapping up mixed stir-fried veges such as onion, paneer  (Indian cottage cheese), capsicum, chillies and some cabbage. While this roll had a lot of flavour and really hit the spot on a cold Sikkim winter night, I didn't find anything too special about this roll. But, if you're like my friends then you might like this roll more than the momos. Either way, you really can't go wrong.

Gangtok is a beautiful and incredibly clean hill station in South Sikkim and there are many breath-taking views to enjoy (be sure to ride the Ropeway cable car), but if you don't have true Tibetan food while you're there then you have wasted your time. Indo-Chinese cuisine is a unique category of "Indian" food and must be enjoyed in its most authentic form.

Above: this low key joint is found hidden in an alley off the bustling market on Mahatma Gandhi Road 

Above: the special roll

Below: the best momos that I have ever eaten

Above: view of Gangtok from the hotel

Below: a Buddhist monastery near Gangtok