Mere brother ki dulhan (my brother's bride) - a mixed kitchidi of emotions

Last year I attended a cousin's wedding and blogged about the emotions that go into each meal made at home (refer to Rasoi). This year after another cousin's wedding, I thought I would briefly write about the various emotions that have gone into this one.

With the majority of my mom's family (which is HUGE by the way) under one roof, it was expected that there would be a lot of chaos, but what I wasn't expecting was the numerous and sometimes contradicting feelings that were felt by most people.

I had so much fun spending time with and getting to know many of my cousins and aunties/uncles (some of which I had never met or knew about). I think we all learnt a lot about each other and our family (history). Hanging out with family members who are in your age group and have the same interests will result in a lot of laughing (sometimes uncontrollably), lack of sleep (due to conversations/chats going on til 4 in the morning) and the feeling that you have missed out on so much by not knowing them until now.

Seeing your grandma reminisce with her sisters and having to leave the room when you mom and her cousins are laughing and joking away (so loudly) explains a lot about their upbringing and what their childhoods would have been like. It was awesome to see how close they still are even after all this time (despite not seeing each other for decades).

However the feeling (not common for all families) we experienced that was like a tick eating away at the back of our minds (and hearts) was the feeling of loss. This became obvious when my mum,  grandma and uncle were taking a photo with my cousin (the groom) in the mehendi/haldi ceremony and had to hide their tears behind forced smiles. It was also (almost embarrassingly) obvious when the nikkah (muslim marriage) was confirmed by my cousin. It is not common for the groom's family to be upset or in tears,  but at this point every member of our family had tears streaming down. The loss we felt was that of our fathers, uncles, brothers and sons who were no longer with us - the people who would have loved to have been at this event.

This wedding has been bittersweet to say the least - incredibly sweet because of all the fun we all had with each other and being able to welcome a new addition to our family (my new bhabi [sister-in-law] who I can't wait to get to know). But bitter because all throughout the festivities we were reminded of all that we have lost.

Alex Haley said "In every conceivable manner, family is the link to our past and the bridge to our future". The last two weeks have shown me why family is so important and that Alex knew what he was talking about.

above: Fun times with the fam!

below: Nanna's reunion with her sisters

Below: mum and (some of) her cousins

Chandni Chowk - A taste of Purani Dilli (Old Delhi)

3 days into my stay and I was struggling to find a reason to venture all the way to one of my favourite places in Delhi but I finally had one when my Maami (aunt) said she needed some things for the wedding which would easily be found in Old Delhi.

So after a long ride in the metro, we were in Chandni Chowk (one of the oldest areas of Delhi). My cousins and I decided to go to Jama Masjid (India's largest mosque built by Shah Jahan - same person who built the Taj) because we figured that would be the best place to eat some nice mughalai food and do the wedding shopping.

We spent almost 2 hours shopping and admiring the historic masjid before our stomachs demanded we have lunch. The shop keeper guided us through the gulleys (paths) of Chandni Chowk to this small biryani joint called Taufeeq Biryani. For 30 Rs (approx 60c) my cousins and I had a full plate to share. I wouldn't recommend these unknown (Lo key) biryani places because while they taste much better than the biryani you get at all Indian restaurants outside of India, the quality of meat is sometimes questionable. But for 60c who is complaining?!

We then went to Jawahar Hotel, one the oldest restaurants in Purani Dilli (next to Karim's). We ordered mutton qourma, chicken biryani and tandoori chicken with Romali roti (roti so thin that it is nearly transparent). The biryani wasn't bad but there was nothing too special about it. The qourma was rich in flavour, spice and had well cooked meat. The tandoori chicken was slightly dry but tasted delicious with the Romali. If you are near Jama Masjid then I would recommend Jawahar hotel over Karims (which I am not a fan after having average food there in the last few years).

Despite being full from lunch, I made my cousins join me in enjoying some fresh Paranthe (layered and shallow fried roti) from the famous "Paranthe wali galli" (street of paranthas). The main restaurant of PwG had a large range of paranthas to choose from but because we were already full we decided to share a muli (radish) and rabri (sweet and thickened milk) paranthas. The paranthas were served on a thali with 5-6 different chutneys and sabzis (vege curries). The chutneys included a tangy banana one which went surprisingly well with both the savoury muli parantha and the sweet rabri one. The paranthas themselves were awesome! Highly recommend this place (even if it's not in the way).

Before getting on the metro back to CP, we stopped to have mitthai at a small sweet shop located at the entrance of Paranthe wali galli. The gulab jamuns, Ras mallai and rasgulla were as sweet and delicious as they sound.

Those who have issues with hygiene and personal space may not enjoy what Chandni Chowk has to offer but those who are looking to experience rich history, flavour and excitement must visit the cultural capital of the capital city.

See you next time after my cousin's wedding!

above: exploring chandni chowk by cycle rickshaw

bottom: Built by Shah Jahan (same as Taj), Jama Masjid is India's largest mosque

above: chicken biryani, mutton quorma and tandoori chicken with romali roti from Jawahar Hotel

below: muli parantha, rabri parantha on a thali of sabzis and chutneys

above: amazing mitthai near paranthe wali galli - Ras mallai, rasgulla, gulab jamun

Baby steps to street food - Chole Kulcha

Chole Kulcha (Janpath)

Category: Streetfood

Nostril-flaring (hygiene rating): typical dhaba (no guarantee of washed hands, unsealed floors, etc)
Personal Rating: worth trying out (if you're in the area)

On my first day in India, after having a safe snack (chaat) at Haldirams in CP (Connaught Place) in Delhi, I just didn't feel right. I felt something was missing. Kuch adhoora tha (it felt incomplete).

While the Raj Kachori,  papdi chaat and sweet/salty fresh lime sodas were amazing, I needed more.

So after doing some quality shopping in Janpath, my Mamu (uncle) took my cousin and I to a small dhaba (shack) behind one of the buildings. Turns out that he used to come to this dhaba every other day when he worked in Delhi more than 20 years ago.

The dhaba itself was like any other inner city dhaba - not too big, quite "lo-key" with no signage, a bench for people to eat at and the main meals being made fresh in front of the customers. The chole (chickpeas) itself was fairly simple, served in a bowl made of dried leaves and was mixed with a bit of potato, chilies and fresh ginger. The kulcha (puri that is baked instead of being deep fried) was soft and broke easily with one hand

The food was quick, full of flavour and it also had bit of a kick. But I think the experience of eating at a local dhaba that has been around probably longer than me is what I was after!

Nothing like some popular street food to say "Welcome (back) to India"

Above: Raj Kachori, Papdi Chaat and Salty/Sweet Fresh Lime Soda from Haldirams

Below: Chole Kulcha

Above: this dhaba has been serving hot Chole-Kulcha for 20+ years

Below: Selfie with one of my biggest Movember fans

Return to the motherland

When I started this blog last year I didn't think I would be needing to post in it too often. I thought it would be once every few years (on the rare visit to India) and people wouldn't have to see my obsession with food on their news feed. In July, however, I found out that my cousin from Dubai was getting married in India this December which meant I would be going there for a third time in three years! I'm not complaining though.

So brace yourselves for a series of posts on food from Delhi, Patna, Chennai, Pondicherry,  Hyderabad, Mumbai and maybe more.

Will look forward to hearing your feedback on my style of writing or even just your opinion of the food I post about.

3 weeks. 6+ cities. 1 family wedding (with a mini family reunion). Many memories to be made and an unlimited number of flavours, smells and experiences to be shared (as much as my stomach can handle).

Get ready for another Taste of the Motherland.

I'm going home!

Food for thought

And so comes the end of another memorable trip in India. Below is a collection of various thoughts and internal discussions I have had in these last 3 weeks. I couldn't write them out like a proper blog because that would make it longer than it already is. Let me know what you think.

Final Thoughts:

• According to Wikipedia, India has 28 states, 7 union territories, 22 official languages, 26 "other" languages and more than 6 religions. 

• Contrast throughout the country: "Big city life" of Delhi vs small town in UP, Himalayas in Himachal vs beaches in Goa, Thar desert in Rajasthan vs farms in Jharkhand, modern development vs ancient structures and practices, rich vs poor. 

• Some think I love India too much. My excuse: Emotions, celebrations, food, family and religion are all combined and dependent on one another. There aren't too many countries that have this. This blog was just an excuse for me to attempt to articulate this passion of mine.

• When people describe India they only say how crowded and dirty it is, conveniently ignoring that dirty little secret: Its beautiful. Those who have seen the Taj or Shimla in winter (with snow) will agree.

• I think that those who refuse to give India a chance are not necessarily scared of India; they're actually scared of what they may find out about themselves. Scared that they will not be smart enough and strong enough to go through what 1.3 Billion people go through on a daily basis. 

• "Jugaad" is a Punjabi-Hindi word which basically means "a quick work-around or improvisation". I think this is India's greatest strength as well as its greatest weakness: Strength because people are able to adjust to the perpetually-changing environment around them, allowing India, with its massive population, to operate. One example of this happened in Tanda (small town in UP). When all the water had been used up and there was no electricity, my family was able to take a bucket next door, fill it up using the old hand-pump and then warm it over an open fire so we could shower. If this happened in another country, chances are that not many of us would know how to react and some would probably act as if its the biggest problem in the world. However, "Jugaad" is a major weakness because these adjustments, and this mentality doesn't provide a solution for the root cause of problems.  

• Message to India: While stereotyping is fun, it shouldn't be Punjabis vs Bengalis, Delhiites vs Mumbaikars, North vs South. Whatever the goal is, it should be done together with a united front. I'm sick of having a new state carved out every five years.
• Message to the world: Give India a chance. There really is something for everyone. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. And if you don't want to give it a chance - that's also fine, but please keep your negativity to yourself. With a population exceeding 1.5 Billion (including those who have left the motherland in search of a "better" life), there are enough people who have negative things to say about India without actually providing a solution or trying to do anything about it. 

As always, I'm taking back with me an increased waist size and countless memories of my home. I'm already missing it and planning my next visit. But until then, I hope you all get a real taste of the motherland and have enjoyed mine.

Thanks,

Zain

Rickshaw stand in Delhi

My dream facial hair

Mosques, Temples and Churches

some mouth watering delights which deserve mentioning - Chicken lolipops, kabli mutter chaat, bhel puri, imirti, kachi tikkia, zarda and jelebi

the tri colour waving high on Karnataka's state government assembly hall

Best Chole-Bhature in Delhi

After some shopping in Palika Bazaar (underground market) and CP (Connaught Place), dad and I caught a rickshaw to Bengali Market -  a small suburb of central Delhi known for its concentration of 2 things that are generally synonymous: Bengalis and delicious sweet shops.

Nathu's Sweet House is the place we would often have lunch at when I was younger so today we took a stroll down memory lane and had Nathu's famous chole-bhature - a Punjabi meal. 

Chole-Bhature
Category: Main vegetarian meal
Nostril Flaring (hygiene issues): None identified
Personal Rating: Best chole-bhature in Delhi, my favourite vegetarian meal.

The first thing you notice when you get a plate of chole-bhature is the bhature (similar to puri). Nathu's bhature are huge! Both of them were about the size of half a basketball. Luckily these ones were not stuffed with anything - that would have made it impossible to finish. These ones were fresh out of the kadhai (fry pan) and incredibly soft making it easy to break.

The chole (chickpea curry) was full of flavour and mildly spicy (not too much but had a slight kick). I think the fried/roasted zeera (cumin) seeds and deep fried aaloo (potatoe) that garnished the chole gave it a distinctive taste and added a different texture. The chole is what makes or breaks this meal; this chole definitely made it.

Chole-bhature is normally served with onions, green chili, pickle or chutney.  The chutney that was served at Nathu's was spicy and added a lot of flavour to each bite. 

We also had masala dosa (a South Indian meal), lassi and Ras Malai (a Bengali mithai). All of these were incredible but probably deserve their own blog so I'll leave them out for now.

Nathu's Sweet House is an amazing restaurant which serves authentic and very tasty food at a reasonable price (< Rs 200 per meal). Ironically, if you're looking for a delicious Punjabi meal, go to the Bengali part of town and order Nathu's Chole-Bhature.

Delhi's No.1 Chole-Bhature

Entrance of Nathu's Sweet House with their vast range of mithai on display

Rasoi - Where it all begins

I've never been a fan of Indian restaurants outside of India. They commercialize and dilute the taste of real Indian food. This is what makes me appreciate the food made in my mom's Rasoi (kitchen)  made by the hands of my friends and family. I'm in Tanda (Uttar Pradesh), my Dad's very small hometown, to catch up with family and attend my cousin's wedding (summary shown in picture 1). Tanda is about 180 km East of Lucknow and by "very small", I mean by Indian standards - a population exceeding 150,000. I've had the pleasure of experiencing many family traditions - a lot of which involve eating and preparing delicious and traditional recipes that no 5-star restaurant can replicate.

Indian weddings consist of many functions and ceremonies, all of which are incomplete without a grand feast. Unlike bigger cities, Tanda prefers to follow traditional processes of preparing meals for these ceremonies - e.g. where all of the older women in the family spend hours (waking up early) to prepare the ingredients before cooking the meal in large pots over open fires which will serve hundreds of people (picture 2 shows the gulgules made at 4am). The men also get involved in the process too. They are the ones who collect the bulk ingredients from various markets and sellers before cooking and serving some of the meals themselves (picture 3). 

After the beautiful wedding (Nikkah) ceremony, when my new bhabhi (sister-in-law) a.k.a. the new bahu (daughter-in-law) entered our house, there is a small game that is played where the younger Devar's (brother-in-laws) have to try to eat mithai from their bhabhis' moving hand 7 times. This meant that in 5 minutes I had 7 pieces of mithai (picture 4)

The traditions above are just some of the rituals I got to see. Its tough to truly explain and convey the emotions that go into Indian weddings; whether its the stress of having to cater for such a large group and make a good impression, the joy of having the extended family together, the adrenaline from the monkey attack on the house and even the sight of seeing your dad walk around in a lungi while speaking the local Urdu/Hindi dialect of Tanda. It all just seemed to make the food taste better.

This experience has confirmed my belief that some recipes are better left in the rasoi and away from those who wish to commercialize and dilute the emotions that go into each meal.