Pride of the Malabar Coast: Grilled Tiger Prawns & Fish Curry

Similar to Goa, Kerala is renowned for its scenic beauty, intense spices and delicious seafood. It's almost as if the three sensations just feed of each other, making Kerala that much more memorable. But today I would like to tell you about one meal in particular; the grilled tiger prawns and Malabar fish curry that I had at an outdoor restaurant called Café Cuba in Fort Kochi.

Grilled Tiger Prawns

The grilled tiger prawns were medium sized and came served dry on a plate with six full pieces, carrots and lime. They appeared to have been lightly marinated in a tandoori type of masala, similar to the masala used in tandoori chicken up north. After spending thirty seconds admiring the appearance of the perfectly glazed tiger prawns, we took our first bites. The subtle tandoori marinade with the lime juice squeezed on top made the prawns a delicious appetizer. The fact that they were perfectly cooked made it that much better. One could easily be content with this as his or her main course meal, but the prawns seemed irrelevant once we tried the next dish.

Malabar Fish Curry

In school our teachers always told us "Don't judge a book by its cover". Although, if you're Indian then at home your mom probably changed this to "Don't say anything about your meal until you try it" (or something along those lines) like mine did. This phrase is very apt when describing the Malabar fish curry at Café Cuba. Compared to the prawns, the large whole fish soaked in a thick red curry didn’t seem very appealing but I soon benefited from those childhood lectures. With the first bite (and every one that followed) came an intense rush of flavours that can only be described as "abundant yet balanced". It had intense spice (that is common in most Malayali dishes) but it was balanced by the sweetness of tomatoes. It was somewhat tangy, yet bitter at the same time. I couldn't quite make out how they achieved that. Perhaps the use of Malabar tamarind (different to normal tamarind) is what caused this. The fish was grilled before being added to the curry so the flesh was soft and came off the bone with ease. We started with roti and finished it off with coconut rice.

I can't explain just how much flavour there was in the fish curry. Both my friend and I had to take breaks from eating (partially due to the intense heat of Kochi but also) because we actually couldn't believe how good it was.

My favourite meals will always be nihari/paya and Bihari kababs, but it has to be said… the Malabar fish curry was probably the tastiest dish I have ever eaten.

Below: a video showing the tiger prawns and large whole fish being grilled on the hot plate and a view of Cafe Cuba, a small outdoor restaurant with approximately 5 or 6 tables.

Below: The well-presented grilled tiger prawns

Below: Perhaps not the prettiest dish, but it was probably the tastiest dish I have very had. You can see the Malabar fish curry is full of onion and Malabar Tamarind (those small black chunks).

Below: The ancient Chinese fishing nets (10 minute walk from Cafe Cuba) that were used to catch fresh seafood used by nearby restaurants

Justice, Liberty, Equality and Fraternity - The Indian Dream

26 January 1950. What does this date mean to you? Sadly, to many Indians it's just another day off from work, a day to sleep in late or one of the numerous Indian holidays celebrated every year because that's what the old timers did.

On the other hand, many people are actually aware of its historical significance and its impact on India today; It's the day the constitution came into effect. The day that India granted her citizens fundamental rights and enforced the values by which the government (and leaders) would serve the public. Now we could sit here and write a thesis discussing the flaws of this document (which also happens to be the world's longest constitution) but I don't want to focus on that as it takes away from what the constitution is trying to achieve. The preamble mentions the rights secured to all of India's citizens:

• Justice;
• Liberty of thought, expression, belief, faith and worship;
• Equality of status and opportunity; and
• Fraternity (unity) of the country.

Many of my friends and family continuously question why I feel so strongly about India - when I have never lived there, when I was born in and brought up in NZ and let's not forget the thousands of problems/flaws of India that they have waiting in their back pocket to use against me. They are quick to call me "foolish" and  "ignorant" for thinking positively about this place that I call "home". It's hard to explain myself to them. I completely agree with the negative points they raise, but in my opinion* it's these four sentiments listed in the constitution that define the values of India and what she is striving to achieve.

My only real concern at the moment is that our current Rashtrapati (President) and Pradhan Mantri (Prime Minister) are not doing their part to keep India on the right path by enforcing and protecting these values. It is all too easy to think about current threats to each of the four points:

• Lack of punishment for REAL criminals.
• People not being allowed to criticise religious/political figures without being punished and not being able to practice their religion in peace.
• The stronghold of the archaic caste system and oppression of minorities.
• Politicians looking to divide India based on differences when it is those differences that unite us.

At the moment I cannot offer any solutions, but giving up on the Indian dream is most definitely not a solution. Writing it off as a third-world country "that will never change" is not the way forward. My uncle would always say "Don't be a part of the problem. Be a part of the solution!". By no means is India perfect, nor will I ever think so, but that won't stop me trying to make it one.

Happy Republic Day!

*DISCLAIMER: While I have only read a few different sections of the constitution, I am in no way claiming to be an expert in the subject.

Above: Got an up and close tour of Rashtrapati Bhavan  (The President's house)

Above: The National Emblem of India shining in the shadows of Rashtrapati Bhavan

Above: Tirang (Tricolour) on Rajpath being prepared for Republic Day celebrations. Photo taken by Chandan Khanna

My first Indian festival... Happy Lohri!

Last night was my first celebration of an indian festival in India. Lohri, traditionally a punjabi festival,  involves burning a bon fire and throwing popped corn and nuts on it to celebrate the harvest season (this is my understanding based on the numerous explanations I have heard). While it was mainly people of the Sikh faith that organised the bon fires around the neighbourhood that I was in, it was an amazing feeling to see it being celebrated by people of all religions: Sikhs, Hindus, Muslims, Jains and Christians spending hours together around the fire chatting, learning about the festival and appreciating each others company. Despite having a majority Hindu population in Delhi and India, the same thing happens on Eid and Christmas.

Our differences are what unite us. This is what it means to be secular. This is what it means to be Indian.

The Goan Essentials: Tandoori Pomfret and Fish Curry

Goa (formerly a Portuguese colony) is generally known for partying, beaches, the sunburn music festival and amazing Goan style seafood. While I went for the latter two, it's pretty hard to avoid the others.

Sunburn is one of Asia's biggest music festivals featuring multiple stages for the world's best DJs. I was blown away by what I experienced! You don't need to a fan of electronic and dance music to have fun. It was crazy.

But my real passion in exploring new lands, as always, is the local food. Goan preparations combine traditional Indian spices with Portuguese flavours which give a memorable taste.

There may be many special restaurants in Goa, but one must experience the beach shack culture of the Goan beaches. They offer a diverse range of food including local preparations; Tandoori Pomfret and Goan Fish curry are my favourites.

Tandoori Pomfret:

Pomfret is a small sized fish that has a single bone running through the body. It has flesh on both sides and is heavily marinated in local spices which are very famous throughout India. Sometimes the fish will be stuffed with masala paste before it is flame grilled to perfection. Garnished with lemon, mint/coriander chutney and salad, this dish gives an explosion of flavour and leaves you wanting more (as the fish is not very large). If you are someone who prefers bland food or the "subtly of flavours" then this dish (and most other Indian food) is not for you. 

Goan Fish Curry:

While goan fish curry is unique in its flavour, it can be made in different ways with many types of seafood. Fleshy pieces of fish or prawn are cooked in a thick, spicy and tangy coconut curry. It's should be eaten with plain rice or naan. I usually usually prefer dry (fried /tandoor) fish over curries but the Goan fish curry has opened my eyes. 

The shacks may not be the 5 star beach resorts that people would hope for, but they have a diverse menu that caters to most tastes and a relaxing experience that every beach lover will enjoy.

Above: Sunburn in Goa, Asia's biggest music festival

Below: Goan spices sold in a local market

Above: Tandoori Pomfret served with salad and chutney

Below: Panorama from one of the Beach Shacks on Baga Beach

Roll House: "The best momos and rolls in Gangtok"

If you're  in Gangtok, you're probably there to enjoy the peace and beauty that Sikkim's capital (also a hillstation) has to offer. But if you're like me, then the first thing you Google when in a new city is "places to eat in....".

Sikkim's culture has a strong Tibetan influence and therefore their food consists of Tibet style dishes which have been adjusted to Indian tastes. Sticking to the basics, I decided to try the Roll House's Vege Momos and kathi style roll which were highly rated on TripAdvisor.

Vege Momo
Momos are the Indo-Chinese version of dunplings and are usually served with some chutney or or other spicy sauce; unlike your usual Asian dumplings that are served with soy sauce or chili oil.

These mixed vege and paneer momos were steamed perfectly - steaming hot on the inside but soft and warm on the outside so you are able to hold them while taking small bites without burning your fingers. The chutney packed a major punch so have water or lassi on standby. These momos make a tasty snack for any occasion. I highly recommend visitors in Gangtok to try these.

Roll House's Special Vege Roll
This roll was a large parantha or pouri  (depending on your definition) wrapping up mixed stir-fried veges such as onion, paneer  (Indian cottage cheese), capsicum, chillies and some cabbage. While this roll had a lot of flavour and really hit the spot on a cold Sikkim winter night, I didn't find anything too special about this roll. But, if you're like my friends then you might like this roll more than the momos. Either way, you really can't go wrong.

Gangtok is a beautiful and incredibly clean hill station in South Sikkim and there are many breath-taking views to enjoy (be sure to ride the Ropeway cable car), but if you don't have true Tibetan food while you're there then you have wasted your time. Indo-Chinese cuisine is a unique category of "Indian" food and must be enjoyed in its most authentic form.

Above: this low key joint is found hidden in an alley off the bustling market on Mahatma Gandhi Road 

Above: the special roll

Below: the best momos that I have ever eaten

Above: view of Gangtok from the hotel

Below: a Buddhist monastery near Gangtok

Old Famous Chandni Chowk, A Street Food Heaven

Back in the motherland for another 3 1/2 weeks means a few more blogs on the the food and experiences from some of the   places I'll be visiting. And as usual, the first stop is my favourite city, Dilli.

I wanted to give my friend from NZ a taste of the true Delhi that I have grown to love over the years so I took her to Old Delhi (Purani Dilli).

Purani Dilli is (in)famous for many reasons, but from a culinary point of view you go there for 2 types of food: the authentic Mughalai curries/tandoor and the other is the street food.

After a quick Google search we found Natraj Dahi Balle. It's a tiny 3x1m corner shop near the Chandni Chowk metro station. They sell only two things - Dahi Balle and Aaloo tikki.

Dahi Balle is basically a pakora that has been soaked in cold yogurt with a range of chutneys and spices. It's not supposed to be spicy but instead it blends sweet with sour with tangy tastes. Natraj's dahi balle had the perfect mix of the three sensations. Highly recommended for people who like yogurt or sweet & sour meals.

My pick of the day though was the Aaloo Tikki. This is a potato patty that has been freshly fried and served with a range of sweet/sour and spicy chutneys. A differentiating factor of Natraj's Tikki was the fact that it was stuffed with dried masala that you normally find in kachoris. I was blown away by the amount of flavour in this dish. Such a simple concept with so much taste. The "chatpatta" ("zingy") spice will definitely leave you wanting more!

And finally, to cool down our taste buds we walked over to the "Old Famous Jalebi Wala". Jalebi is a flour based paste that has been deep fried in oil and then soaked in sugar syrup to absorb the sweetness. This one was particularly fat and very juicy but I found that it wasn't as sweet as it probably should be. Standing around the Jalebi Wala while he swirls his hand in the spiral motion is quite an experience so if you aren't keen to eat it, at least go over and see what the crowd is looking at.

Chandni Chowk may not be the cleanest or glamorous place to visit in Delhi, but it really is a special place and the places I listed above are safe must-haves (with no tummy aches afterwards).

Looking forward to what else this trip has to offer me....

Above: Dahi Balle

Below: Aaloo Tikki

Above: a view of the old famous Jalebi wala

Below: fresh fat jalebis

Auliya - ideals of an ideal leader.

Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah - New Delhi

A few months ago I heard a song from the Hindi movie "Ungli" which had the following lyrics:

"Auliya mere rastaa dikha...Girte ko uthna sikhaa" which (roughly) translates to "'Auliya' show me the way... teach someone who has fallen to get back up"

I had never heard the word Auliya before so decided to look it up. According to Google it is a term given to Sufi saints meaning "Friends of God" or a more generic meaning is "Friend/Supporter". One of the first links that was available was to one of Delhi's popular tourist attractions - Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah (Sufi shrine).

Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya was a humble man who was said to have preached and lived by strict principles which include the following:

• Unity and equal treatment of all people irrespective of financial, social or religious background - at a time when the caste system and religious divide was at its peak
• Helping the oppressed and feeding the hungry
• If everyone acts out of love for god and others, there would be no war or poverty
• The equality of women
• Spiritual control and sobriety is better than spiritual intoxication

When I visited his dargah in South Central Delhi. I was quite surprised to see the large number of people who were there to pray for the soul of this man. What was even more (pleasantly) surprising was that right next to the 100s of Muslims praying in the masjid (hardly 5m from the dargah) there were many non-Muslims who were praying for him.

I asked an elderly man if these people were worshiping him. He said no, they just seek his "blessings and guidance".

Travelling through India has shown me so many different cultures, religions, languages, traditions and ways of life. Yet today, our leaders and people in the position to unite us and change this country are choosing to employ the tactic that we cursed the British for using in order to achieve their own agendas - "Divide & Conquer".

I might be wrong but maybe India could do with more people like Nizamuddin Auliya - who can show us the way and teach India how to rise up to what it is capable of being.